Mordheim Hobgoblin Hero

Prime the Model

Paint: Mechanicus Standard Grey (Spray).

The first step to getting any miniature ready for painting is priming. For your Hobgoblin hero, you'll want to use Mechanicus Standard Grey spray. This is an excellent neutral base that provides a good surface for the paints to adhere to while not being too dark or too light. Hold the spray can about 12 inches away from the model and apply light, even coats. Rotate the model to ensure full coverage, but avoid overloading the primer to prevent loss of detail.

Tip: Spray in a well-ventilated area, preferably outside or in a spray booth. Allow the primer to dry fully before moving on to the next step—usually around 30 minutes.

Apply a Thin Layer of Corax White

Paint: Corax White (Base).

With the primer dry, it's time to start working on the base colors. The first paint you'll apply is Corax White. Start by applying a single thin layer over the areas of the model that you want to be lighter, such as the skin or clothing. This first layer will likely be patchy, and that's okay—you're not aiming for full coverage just yet.

Use a medium-sized brush with a good point to control the paint application. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly with water, so it flows smoothly and doesn't obscure any fine details.

Tip: Don’t worry if this first coat looks a bit streaky. The goal is to build up coverage slowly to avoid thick paint buildup.

Build Up to Full Coverage with Corax White

Paint: Corax White (Base).

Now that you’ve got the initial layer of Corax White down, you’ll want to build up to full coverage. To do this, apply 2-3 additional thin coats, allowing each one to dry before moving on to the next. This gradual buildup will ensure a smooth and even finish without obscuring any of the model's detail.

By the end of this step, your white areas should be solid and consistent, giving you a strong base to work with for further detail.

Tip: Be patient—thin layers are key to achieving a professional finish. Avoid the temptation to cover everything in a single thick coat.

Base Coat the Iron Parts and Ropes

Paints: Abaddon Black (Base), Rhinox Hide (Base)

Next, we’ll start laying down the base colors on the metallic and rope areas of the model. For the iron parts, such as armor and weapons, use Abaddon Black. This provides a good dark base for metallics to come later. Apply this carefully, making sure to cover all areas that will be metallic.

For the ropes and any leather straps, use Rhinox Hide. This rich brown color works well for organic materials like ropes and leather. Again, apply this in a couple of thin layers for smooth coverage.

Tip: Be careful around the areas you've already painted white. Use a smaller brush for precision, and don't rush this step.

Paint the Iron Parts with Leadbelcher

Paint: Leadbelcher (Base).

Now that the iron parts have been based in Abaddon Black, it's time to bring them to life with Leadbelcher. Leadbelcher is a dark metallic color that works beautifully for worn, gritty metal, perfect for the aesthetic of a Hobgoblin in Mordheim.

Thin your paint slightly, and carefully apply it over the black areas, allowing some of the black to remain in the recesses for added depth and shading. This technique will give the metal parts a natural, weathered look. Make sure to cover all of the metal areas, such as the blade of his weapon and any armor plates.

Tip: Be gentle with your brushstrokes here—this step is about precision, not speed.

Shade the Iron and Skin

Paints: Agrax Earthshade (Shade), Apothecary White (Contrast).

Shading is where the magic happens—it adds depth, contrast, and realism to your model. Start with the iron parts. Use Agrax Earthshade to apply a generous wash over all of the metallic areas. This will settle into the recesses and give the metal a grimy, battle-worn appearance. Let the wash flow into all the crevices but avoid pooling.

For the Hobgoblin’s skin, use Apothecary White, a Contrast paint. This is ideal for skin tones on creatures like Hobgoblins, as it provides shading and depth while allowing the base color to show through. Apply it evenly over the white skin areas, and let it naturally create shadows and highlights.

Tip: Give the washes plenty of time to dry completely before handling the model again—this usually takes about 30 minutes. This is a great time to take a break and admire your progress!

Highlight the Iron Parts

Paint: Runefang Steel (Layer).

To bring out the details on the iron parts, carefully highlight the edges and raised areas with Runefang Steel. This bright metallic color will give the iron a sharp, reflective quality. Focus on the edges of armor plates, the blade of the weapon, and any other metallic areas. This step adds a sense of wear and tear, making the iron look like it's seen its share of battles.

Tip: Use the side of your brush to catch the edges of the metal, and apply the highlight sparingly. Less is more when it comes to edge highlighting.

Paint Iron Details with Sycorax Bronze

Paint: Sycorax Bronze (Layer).

For a bit of variety and to add visual interest to the iron parts, pick out specific details with Sycorax Bronze. This could be the trim on the armor, decorative elements on the weapon, or any other embellishments. The warm bronze color contrasts nicely with the cold steel and gives the model a more dynamic look.

Tip: Be selective with where you place the bronze—too much could overwhelm the other colors.

Paint Elbows, Knuckles, and Inside the Ears

Paint: Cadian Fleshtone (Base).

To add some warmth and variation to the Hobgoblin’s skin, paint the elbows, knuckles, and inside the ears with Cadian Fleshtone. This will help break up the white skin and add a touch of natural color where the skin would be thinner and more sensitive.

Apply this color carefully, focusing on blending it smoothly into the surrounding areas. You don't want harsh lines here—think of it as gently adding warmth to the skin.

Tip: Thin the paint slightly with water for a smooth application, and work in thin layers to build up the color.

Shade Around the Nose and Eyes

Paint: Druchii Violet (Shade).

For a more dramatic and lifelike effect, use Druchii Violet to shade around the Hobgoblin’s nose and eyes. This will add depth to the face and give the character a more menacing, unhealthy look. Be sparing with the shade—use a fine brush and carefully apply it in the recessed areas around the facial features.

Tip: Blend the shade into the surrounding skin to avoid a stark contrast. The goal is subtlety here.

Highlight the Skin

Paints: Corax White (Base), White Scar (Layer).

Now it's time to bring the skin to life with some highlights. Start by re-highlighting the skin areas with Corax White, focusing on the raised parts and blending it over the areas where you've applied Cadian Fleshtone and Druchii Violet. This step will unify the skin tones and create a smooth transition between the different colors.

Once that's done, add a final highlight with pure White Scar. Focus on the highest points—such as the cheekbones, forehead, and tops of the ears—to make these areas pop.

Tip: Use a small, fine brush for this step, and apply the paint very carefully to avoid covering up too much of your previous work.

Paint Nails, Teeth, and Tongue

Paints: Zandri Dust (Base), Mephiston Red (Base).

For the Hobgoblin's nails and teeth, base coat them with Zandri Dust. This earthy tone is a great starting point for these details. For the tongue, use Mephiston Red to add a vibrant contrast inside the mouth.

Tip: Work with a steady hand and a fine brush—these details are small but essential for adding character to your model.

Shade Nails, Teeth, and Paint the Eyes

Paints: Agrax Earthshade (Shade), Mephiston Red (Base), Yriel Yellow (Layer).

To bring out the details in the nails and teeth, apply a wash of Agrax Earthshade. This will darken the recesses and give these parts a more realistic, dirty appearance.

For the eyes, base coat them with Mephiston Red. Once dry, carefully dot the center of each eye with Yriel Yellow to create a piercing, malevolent gaze.

Tip: Be patient with the eyes. A steady hand and a fine brush are essential here. If necessary, practice on a piece of paper or another model before attempting this step on your hero.

Highlight the Teeth and Nails

Paint: Karak Stone (Layer).

Once the wash has dried, highlight the teeth and nails with Karak Stone. Focus on the raised areas, leaving the deeper parts shaded with Agrax Earthshade. This will give the nails and teeth a more three-dimensional appearance.

Tip: Again, thin layers and a light touch will help you achieve the best result.

Base Coat the Poison

Paint: Caliban Green (Base).

To give the blade a sinister, poisoned look, base coat the poison areas with Caliban Green. This dark, rich green is an excellent foundation for the toxic effect you're about to create. Cover the entire area where you want the poison to appear, including any drips or splatters.

Tip: Make sure the green contrasts well with the metal beneath it by applying a solid layer of paint.

Gradient Highlight the Poison

Paint: Warpstone Glow (Layer).

Next, begin adding highlights to the poison by applying Warpstone Glow in thin layers. Focus on the top parts of the poison, applying 3 layers toward the upper edges and bottom of any drips. This gradient will give the poison a glowing, vibrant appearance.

Tip: Blend each layer smoothly into the previous one for a natural transition between the darker and lighter areas.

Highlight the Poison and Drips

Paint: Moot Green (Layer).

Now, further enhance the poison by highlighting the top areas and the drips with Moot Green. This bright green color will make the poison stand out and give it a more toxic, unnatural look. Apply this color to the highest points of the poison effect and the edges of the drips.

Tip: Keep your highlights focused and precise—this will make the poison look more convincing.

Highlight with Gauss Blaster Green

Paint: Gauss Blaster Green (Layer).

To add a vibrant glow to the poison, apply Gauss Blaster Green to the top of the poison and the drips. This bright, green color is perfect for creating a toxic, luminous effect. Apply it sparingly, focusing on the areas where the light would naturally hit to emphasize the poisonous, glowing look.

Tip: For a smoother blend, consider applying the paint slightly thinned with water.

Final Poison Highlight

Paints: Gauss Blaster Green (Layer), White Scar (Layer).

For the final touch on the poison, mix Gauss Blaster Green with a 1:1 ratio of White Scar and apply this to the very tips of the poison effect and the top edges of any drips. This highlight will make the poison look like it's glowing intensely at its brightest points.

Tip: This should be a very small and focused highlight, so use the finest brush you have to get precise control over the placement of the color.

Prepare the Base

Tool: Textured Roller.

It's time to get creative with the base! Using a textured roller, roll out a street pattern that fits the Mordheim aesthetic. This will create a rough, cobbled texture that gives the base a gritty, urban feel, perfect for the grim city of Mordheim.

Tip: Ensure the texture is consistent across the base and has enough depth to catch the drybrushing and weathering you’ll do later.

Attach Street Elements

Materials: Street Pattern, Skulls.

Now that the base texture is complete, glue down any additional details you want to add, like small parts of the street pattern or skulls. These elements add story and interest to the base, making it feel more like a real part of the Mordheim environment.

Tip: Keep the composition balanced—too much clutter can distract from the model itself.

Fill Gaps with Texture Paint

Paint: AK Corrosion Texture Paint, Tufts.

To fill any gaps and add more texture to the base, apply AK Corrosion Texture Paint. This adds an extra layer of gritty realism to the street surface. After applying the texture paint, glue down some tufts of grass or other vegetation to break up the hard lines and make the base feel more organic.

Tip: Vary the placement of tufts to create a natural, uneven look.

Paint the Street

Paints: Eshin Grey (Base), Dawnstone (Drybrush), Administratum Grey (Drybrush), Karak Stone (Base for Skull).

To paint the street surface, start by base coating it with Eshin Grey. Once that's dry, drybrush the whole surface with Dawnstone, followed by a lighter drybrush of Administratum Grey. This will bring out the texture and give the street a worn, weathered look. Paint any skulls or bones on the base with Karak Stone.

Tip: Use a soft, wide drybrush for this step to get a nice even coverage without overloading the details. To paint the street surface, start by base coating it with Eshin Grey. Once that's dry, drybrush the whole surface with Dawnstone, followed by a lighter drybrush of Administratum Grey. This will bring out the texture and give the street a worn, weathered look. Paint any skulls or bones on the base with Karak Stone.

Tip: Use a soft, wide drybrush for this step to get a nice even coverage without overloading the details.

Shade the Entire Base

Paint: Agrax Earthshade (Shade).

To tie all the colors together and add depth to the base, apply a wash of Agrax Earthshade over the entire surface. This will darken the recesses and give the base a grimy, dirty appearance—perfect for Mordheim.

Tip: Be generous with the shade, but watch for pooling in flat areas. You want the wash to settle into the recesses, not create splotches on the surface.

Highlight the Skull

Paints: Ushabti Bone (Layer), Wraithbone (Layer), Pallid Wych Flesh (Layer).

Once the wash is dry, highlight the skull with Ushabti Bone, followed by a finer highlight of Wraithbone, and finally a very fine highlight of Pallid Wych Flesh. This will make the skull stand out on the base, giving it a bleached, ancient look.

Tip: Use progressively smaller brushes for each highlight to keep the highlights focused on the most raised areas.

Dust the Street with Pigment

Material: Brown Pigment.

Finally, to complete the weathered, war-torn look of the streets of Mordheim, dust the base with brown pigment. This will add a layer of dust and dirt, making the scene feel more lived-in and natural. Lightly brush the pigment onto the street surface, focusing on the recesses and edges.

Tip: Less is more with pigment—start light and build up the effect gradually.